Denali (Mount McKinley) is the highest mountain in North America and the perfect symbol for the United States.
It is a mountain which can flash freeze you to death in a few seconds but one which can be seen further than any continental highpoint (250 miles) -- even beating Everest which is obscured by so many other "lesser" Himalayan peaks. Iceland claims its highest point a 6,000 summit can be seen 600 miles away at sea.
The State of Alaska (et al) officially refer to it by the local Indian name "Denali" (the "high one"). A white gold prospector named it in 1896 for then President William McKinley. The prospector said he named the peak as a political act in opposition to those who wanted a silver dollar standard.
The U.S. Government compromised in 1980 by calling the National Park "Denali" and the mountain "Mt. McKinley." I personally think the mountain will ultimately return to its earlier name.
Timberline in these parts is at 3,000 feet, so you can imagine what the climb is like.
Two peaks crown Mount McKinley with the south peak the higher. The north peak was conquered in 1910. The higher south peak was scaled in 1913 by Hudson Stuck and Harry Karstens.
Climbing season is very short. Nearly 1,000 people each season attempt the mountain (1/10th the number who attempt Rainier) -- most of whom attempt the climb in June.
Colder minimum temperatures and strong northwest winds commonly occur in May. Late June and July are warmer but more unsettled. By late July melting snow bridges over crevasses on the lower glaciers create huge avalanche hazards. The highest success rates occur in June. The coldest weather on Denali is found from November through April with average temperatures ranging from -30F to -70F recorder at the 19,000 foot level. It is not uncommon to find it -50F at the 17,200 foot camp in early May.
The 100+ mph winds in the winter (along with the no sunlight days) can freeze you in seconds -- especially considering the venturi effect that doubles wind velocity in such areas as Denali Pass. At such elevations, your mental capacities can be reduced by 2/3!
There are 30 routes on Denali. The West Buttress, West Rib, Cassin Ridge and Muldrow are the most frequently climbed. There literally can be hundreds of people climbing the peak at a time in high season!
There are numerous guide services and air taxis that will fly you close to the mountain. There are also plenty of web sites for the arm chair climber.
*McKinley was resurveyed in 1989 and the height was listed as 20,306. However this height has not been widely used on many sources.
Mt. McKinley view from about 65 miles looking North. This is the highest peak in North America.
Bush plane flight controls prior to take off.
Take off from Talkeetna, Alaska. It will take us 60 miles to reach 13,500 foot altitude for this spectacular sight seeing tour around Mt. McKinley.
Heading out in the right direction.
The wetlands below with tons of wildlife.
About 40 miles out.
Getting closer.
Our first view of the Galcier coming off Mt. McKinley's South side.
Spectacular views.....
We are about 9,500 feet and climbing
Mt. McKinley has it's own weather pattern. Although is was a crystal clear sunny day, small clouds are present and also at the top.
View from the West side of the mountain and another Glacier View of South Glacier running West from Mt McKinley We are just under 11,500 feet and a view from the south side of Mt. McKinley Glacier close-up. Cracks and ridges are hundreds of feet deep. Still trying to gain enough altitude to access the North side of the mountain. Need about 13,500 feet to cross the ridge to the left side where north face boosts a 14,000 foot cliff drop. WOW! We have our altitude to cross over the ridge to the North side and the 14,000 foot cliff, the highest cliff in North America. Notice the puffy clouds suspended. You can reach out and touch. What a great view and an experience to remember always. The mountain to the West of Mt. McKinley is almost 19,000 feet. We are circling here on the West side to gain just alittle more altitude. The pilot says at this point that if we go higher than 14,000 feet that we'll need oxygen. Circling on the West side of the mountain.
Evidence of avalanches all over the place particularly due to warmer weather. This glacier below is well over 1000 feet deep and melts just at the top forming small crystal clear aqua color lakes. We are still circling to gain some altitude. Notice: at mid top about 1.5" down you'll notice foot prints and dots. These are climbers and their base camp with their small tents. A picture perfect day! Looking West from the mountain. Crossing over the West side of Mt. McKinley to the North face. Picture taken looking East of the West side. Approaching the North West side... I am riding shotgun in the Bush Plane built in 1956. These airplanes are Alaska's work horses. We are flying at about 13,500 feet and 110 MPH. We are coming upon the North face where the 14,000 foot cliff is. Just crossing over to the North face here. The bottom of the 14,000 foot cliff. At least if you fell off the cliff, you'd land in plenty of snow. Just coming over the ridge from the west side to the back north facing side. More small lakes of melted glacier with pure aqua colored water. North face of Mt. McKinley and the 14,000 foot cliff. North side of Mt. McKinley and the cliff to the right. You can see the top and cloud hiding the top of the peak. Pictures were taken with a Panasonic 3.5 floppy digital camera much like the Sony Mavica. These pictures are super fine screen saver type and I have reduced them all to 640 x 480 Pixels. They are somewhat clearer here but shot from inside and through the window. Around on the East side of the mountain. This glacier has ridges which are hundreds of feet deep. Another view of the North face. In 1919, climbers went up the East side of Mt. Mckinley with a ten foot pole in order to put it in the top of the peak so it could be seen from a distance and observers would know they had reached the top. Most climbers go the West route up the mountain as it's much easier. Working our way around to the South side of the mountain. The clouds seem to be where the sun is. Looking from the East to the West and mountain top. Coming back to the South side. We will now circle to loose altitude for our decent into the staging area and glacier just below the South face for a landing at 7,500 feet.
Perhaps I captured a UFO in the above picture? Our landing site at 7,500 feet. Notice another Bush Plane below. We will circle now to lower our altitude for our landing on skis.
Our approach and coming in for a landing. My wife Donna with a snow ball. Had to have glacier boots. The Glacier is over 1000 feet deep and we landed up hill. These flights into this area just below the peak terminates around July 15th as the snow gets to slushy for landing and getting airborn again for take off. The season is very short for this sort of thing. We spent about 45 minutes taking in the spectacular view here. An avalanche came down the mountain while we were there. The sound was spetacular as this area is know as the Amphitheater. Dan Hill the photographer standing with a snowball ready for action. Interesting to note. Here back in the fifties, a bush pilot built a rock structure to house the climbers prior to their accent. It was rented for the night so could not take pictures of the structure. It rents for $80 per night. The flight in is $200 and the flight out is $200 per person. One person each per night is $480. It would be an interesting experience to spend the night here, the avalanche noise and all the spectacular views from on high.
What a great experience we will always remember for the rest of our lives. Wearing my Realty Executives Baseball Cap just prior to take off. Where the landing up hill was easy. The take off goes down hill then really drops off. Right at that point, gravity gets us airborn. Very exciting to say the least. D-Plane....D-Plane...
All aboard for lift off. And.....We have Lift Off of the most spectacular flight of our lives.
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